Leather Type

The hides of different animals yield leathers with different characteristics. It's a good idea to be familiar with the basic qualities of different animal leathers so you know what you're buying.

Cowhide, also called steerhide, is stiff, durable, and may be tough to break. A cowhide jacket will provide protection and won't wear out over time. If you plan to put your jacket through any type of heavy use, you should pick cowhide.

Other common leather types are goatskin and lambskin. Goatskin is lighter than cow leather and nearly as durable. Lambskin is very soft and smooth, but it is more fragile as a result. Though not as common, deerskin also makes a light, soft leather. Like lambskin, deer leather scratches easily.

If you're looking for something a little more exotic, consider leather made from bison or horsehide. Bison is tough like cowhide but more supple. Horsehide is softer but not as durable. Both bison and horsehide have a cracked or veined appearance that sets them apart from more common leathers.

Some leather makers, like Independence Brothers, offer leather jackets custom made from your choice of animal hide. You can check out the options by checking out how to buy leather jacket.

Leather Quality

Leather varies widely in terms of texture, softness, thickness, and shine. These differences are a product of both nature and the manufacturing process.

To make leather, the hide is first split into the “top cut” and “bottom cut.” The top cut is turned into “top grain”/“corrected” or “full grain” depending on how it is processed. Top grain or corrected leather has been sanded, dyed, and otherwise treated to remove any scars or branding from the hide. You can spot corrected leather by looking for an overly shiny, smooth surface or plasticky feel.

On the other hand, uncorrected, full grain leather will feel soft. The pattern of the grain will have a natural, less uniform appearance. Leather with a subtle grain pattern will wear well over time. The inevitable creases and scratches that develop will incorporate nicely into the overall character of the jacket.

The bottom cut of the hide is used to make lower-quality leather products. When buying a jacket, you'll want to stay away from anything labeled "genuine leather" or "bonded leather." Genuine leather is an industry term for leather made from the inner part of the hide. Genuine leather must be dyed and treated to give it the illusion of the grain.

Bonded leather isn't 100% leather: it's made from pieces of leather "bonded" to other materials. Genuine and bonded leather aren't as durable as top leather. If you want your jacket to last and look great for years, look for only top or full grain leather.

Hardware

Though the leather is the obvious focal point of your new jacket, don’t forget to check out the hardware for durability and quality. First of all, always make sure the hardware is metal. It’s easy to tell by feel if something is made out of plastic.

Metal zippers are a necessity. They should be able to stand up to the wear-and-tear of heavy use. When trying on your jacket, pull the zipper up and down to make sure it doesn't snag. Check that the fittings slide together easily. If the zipper has a placket—a flap of fabric covering the zipper—make sure that the fabric is sturdy and doesn’t catch.

You should also consider the color of the hardware. Silver or chrome will be most common, but some jackets come with neutral hardware that matches the color of the leather. Go with what works for you. However, for longevity's sake, it's probably best to avoid anything too flashy.

Stitching

Stitching is an easy-to-spot indicator for the overall quality of the jacket. Both the interior and exterior stitching should be even, close, and straight. Any loose or frayed threads may lead to unraveling down the road.

The highest quality leather goods are hand stitched with a technique called saddle stitching. To create a saddle stitch, the tailor sews with two needles simultaneously to create a strong bond between two pieces of leather. Here’s a video that shows what saddle stitching looks like...

Saddle stitching is aesthetically pleasing and makes the jacket durable. Even if one thread breaks, the line of stitches won’t unravel. This is not to say that machine-stitched leather jackets aren't durable, particularly if a lock stitch was used. Do a little research into the company you're buying from to find out how their jackets are stitched.

Finally, look at the threads themselves. The fibers might be made of nylon or a linen blend. Either way, each stitch should be flat and sharp with no kinks, knots, or fly-aways. Messy stitching or frayed threads are a dead give-away that the garment wasn’t made with much care or quality. Stitching

Stitching is an easy-to-spot indicator for the overall quality of the jacket. Both the interior and exterior stitching should be even, close, and straight. Any loose or frayed threads may lead to unraveling down the road.

The highest quality leather goods are hand stitched with a technique called saddle stitching. To create a saddle stitch, the tailor sews with two needles simultaneously to create a strong bond between two pieces of leather. Here’s a video that shows what saddle stitching looks like...

Saddle stitching is aesthetically pleasing and makes the jacket durable. Even if one thread breaks, the line of stitches won’t unravel. This is not to say that machine-stitched leather jackets aren't durable, particularly if a lock stitch was used. Do a little research into the company you're buying from to find out how their jackets are stitched.

Finally, look at the threads themselves. The fibers might be made of nylon or a linen blend. Either way, each stitch should be flat and sharp with no kinks, knots, or fly-aways. Messy stitching or frayed threads are a dead give-away that the garment wasn’t made with much care or quality.

Lining

The lining of a mens leather jacket can be made from everything from durable rayon to warm shearling. The lining you pick should reflect the climate where you live and how often you plan to wear your jacket

Even though it’s relatively easy to fix a torn lining, you should still look for durable materials. Silky fabrics might feel nice against the skin, but they’ll also thin and more likely to rip. Like stitching, the lining of a jacket can indicate its overall quality. If the lining looks bunched or feels cheap, the jacket might not be well-made.

Since the lining will be the part of the jacket you feel the most, make sure that it’s comfortable. If you're not sure where to begin, look at the label of your favorite shirt to see what it's made from. On the other hand, if you have a shirt that itches or makes you sweat like crazy, you may want to avoid that fabric in the lining of your leather jacket.